From the
 By Lisa Skolnik - Photographs by Tony Berardi
Company's coming, and Renee and Len Rothschild are ready to show their guests a terrific time. The Chicago couple, who live near Wrigley Field, are naturals for the job: Both exude the kind of warmth that true hospitality requires; she's a dietitian who is an accomplished and enthusiastic chef-, and their children are grown so they can give their undivided attention to entertaining On this particular evening, the Rothschilds have given some thought to their dinner party. They know how they'll set the mood to make the ambience a bit more special, and they have a good idea of the food they'll serve. All because they called ahead to Deleece, their favorite restaurant and one that also happens to be close by, and talked to Carol Wallack, its co-owner and chef. They discussed some of the parameters of the evening, such as the most appropriate spot to seat their party of six to foster a little intimacy, and the dishes they can serve as appetizers. They prefer to let the guests choose their own main course. The evening will be easy, special and, most important, fan. Sure, they entertain at home, "frequently, in fact," says Renee, but "we both have very busy careers and lots of commitments." They have a wide range of friends, many business associates (Len owns a string of men's retail stores) and a close-knit family ("our 25-year-old triplets have friends of their own we need to meet," quips Renee). Given such requisites, it's not surprising that "there's just not enough time to always do it at home." The Rothschilds entertain at Deleece regularly, so often that "it's like an extension of my home," maintains Renee. They love the food, which Renee describes as "nothing short of spectacular," and appreciate the "causal yet chic ambience" of the place and Wallack's "superb style of presentation." "We can go there for all different kinds of occasions, and always feel at ease," says Renee. And location is an undeniable asset, given the premium placed on time these days. The Rothschilds are far from alone in their habit of entertaining away from home, and in fact represent a growing trend, according to Caitlin Storhaug, spokeswoman for the National Restaurant Associationtion (NRA) in Washington, D.C. "Restaurants make a spur-of-the-moment evening possible, and open up the week for people who have demanding jobs or kids," she says. "They provide a ready-made atmosphere for entertaining." Yet Americans weren't always so emancipated about eating out. "Ten to 20 years ago, restaurants were reserved just for special occasions such as birthdays and anniversaries," Storhaug notes. "Today we're so busy that they're being used as a time-management tool. People are really being creative about how they fit everything into their lives, and restaurants help them do it" "Not everyone has the time and inclination to go through all the planning and work that's necessary for entertaining," agrees Peggy Post, author of "Emily Post's Etiquette" (16th edition, Harper Collins, $35). "Plus most of us don't have the luxury of having someone to help out" Post notes. According to the NRA, only 25 percent of the food dollar went to restaurants in 1955; today it's up to a whopping 43 percent. Americans now eat out 4.1 times a week. But the fastest-growing segment of the restaurant industry is casual dining, specifically those eateries that qualify as "third places," says Joshua Isenberg, editor of The Food Channel, a trends publication for food industry professionals. "Third places refer to restaurants that are a safe ground for relaxing and entertaining; home is considered the first place and work the second," he explains. But not every restaurant fits the profile of a "third place." The Rothschilds are drawn to Deleece because it's earthy and urbane at the same time, a cross between the old-fashioned neighborhood restaurant and the chic eatery. "We're not a white tablecloth restaurant but we have linen napkins," says Wallack, "and it's definitely our intention to bridge a gap." And over the two years the Rothschilds have frequented the place, they've come to know Wallack and her partner, Lynne Wallack-Handler (the two are sisters), so they feel more like friends than merely customers when they walk in the door. "Everyone knows us by name, as well as what we like and where we'll be sitting. It makes us feel totally comfortable," says Renee. In fact, Deleece and other restaurants that bridge the gap Wallack refers to are quite a change from the traditional neighborhood restaurant, which typically was ethnic because it was started by the people who lived in the area, says Ron Paul, president of Technomic Inc., a restaurant consulting firm in Chicago. "Eating patterns are broader these days," he notes, "and these places reflect the complexion and lifestyles of a neighborhood rather than the ethnic makeup." "The neighborhood restaurant isn't necessarily ethnic anymore," says Curtis Wierbicki managing partner of Jackson Harbor Grill, located on Jackson Harbor in a Park District building off Lake Shore Drive and 63rd Street on Chicago's South Side. Instead, "it takes everyone into consideration. We're so ethnically diverse today, you have to be prepared to make as many people happy as you can," Wierbicki says.
And the neighborhood restaurant that plays this role is proliferating, notes Wierbicki, who has been in the business for 25 years and knows how to tap into trends. Before opening Jackson Harbor Grill just six months ago, he worked in management at The Everest Room, Jackie's, and Carlos in Highland Park, and developed restaurants with Roger Greenfield for six years. Deleece was conceived to cater to the people in its area who "wanted to eat good, interesting, healthy, fresh and eclectic food at affordable prices," says Wallack, who hails from Los Angeles and was formerly a personal chef for James Garner and Jack Nicholson. When they opened two and a half years ago on Southport Avenue just north of Irving Park Road, "the area was just catching on, and we were one of the first restaurants in a strip that's now become a booming mecca," she notes. Jackson Harbor Grill also reflects the complexion of its Jackson Park location, serving a broad range of dishes with an emphasis on fresh seafood and Southern and Caribbean specialities. And Wierbicki grew up nearby on the South Side, so he's familiar with the area. "It's the kind of place to come in a suit or jeans and bring business associates or friends and family," says Wierbicki. And it's also a place that's seeing a lot of entertaining, he reports, especially since there aren't that many restaurants that fill. this niche in the area.
The same circumstances apply for John Inserra, who owns D. Bob's American Bistro in Park Ridge. A veteran of the Ritz-Carlton Hotel company and graduate of Cornell University's School of Hotel and Restaurant Administration, Inserra moved back to the area after stints in the business all over the United States. He opened his doors 16 months ago. I actually grew up here, and wanted to bring something back to this area," he says. The comment has a familiar ring, as does the restaurant. He describes his offerings as "comforting, gourmet, home-cooked meals," but the menu reflects the same broad appeal as those of Deleece and Jackson Harbor Grill. He estimates that about 50 percent of his dinner customers are entertaining at the place, and works the room accordingly "When someone comes in, they need to be recognized and greeted, especially if they're with guests," he maintains. "That gives a different tone to the evening and makes them feel like they're at home without the hassles." But, bottom line: "When you're entertaining, it's important to be in a place that's wonderful and warm, and that's what a neighborhood restaurant where you're known can provide," says Post. "It's as close to home as possible-without the work." Chicago Tribune Magazine, November 9, 1997, SECTION 10, page 37 |
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